We give the Point Calimere Wildlife and Bird Sanctuary a miss and push on in search of a fort built like a tiered cake. Tribute to a visionaryIf there is a soundtrack for the road to Rameshwaram it would be the deep drone of the oboe. We are parked a few kilometres beyond the town of Cuddalore where the Gadilam empties itself into the sea. In the early 1600s, the Danes, with the permission of the Maharaja of Tanjore built a fort for their spice trade. The plan is to pass up the four-lane highways — linking Tiruchi-Madurai-Salem-Coimbatore — that would’ve got us to anywhere in Tamil Nadu in a couple of hours, and instead follow the lonelier, two-lane East Coast Road (ECR) that threads along the Bay, rising and falling among the tussock-topped sand dunes alongside it.
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