An ode to the desi appetite

  • | Thursday | 16th August, 2018

But first a word about the small tea kadai put up near the restaurant’s entrance to give a local touch. As the name suggests, Tastes of India focuses on regional flavours, aromas and choices that are aimed at transporting foodies to other States. The GRT Regency team seems to enjoy springing up surprises every Independence Day. But when you have a couple of dozen items to taste, it can make you go crazy too. A trained tea master brews dum tea and offers the hot and strong beverage topped with a layer of frothy milk in a tumbler.

A buffet menu is always a challenge. Everything looks good and you want it all! But when you have a couple of dozen items to taste, it can make you go crazy too. The GRT Regency team seems to enjoy springing up surprises every Independence Day. As the name suggests, Tastes of India focuses on regional flavours, aromas and choices that are aimed at transporting foodies to other States. “This has become our signature event and some of our regular customers start making enquiries and reservations much in advance,” says S Subash Kumar, Food & Beverage Manager, guiding a group of 20 guests in the first hour on the opening day of the 10-day festival. Including all of India’s cuisine under one menu is impossible. So Executive Chef K Andavan has rustled up six different buffet spreads that run through the week and cover dishes from across the country. The vegetarian platter emerges the clear winner on the day of my visit. But first a word about the small tea kadai put up near the restaurant’s entrance to give a local touch. A trained tea master brews dum tea and offers the hot and strong beverage topped with a layer of frothy milk in a tumbler. You walk in with it into a brightly-lit and newly-painted restaurant to be greeted by friendly staff dressed in veshti and bright coloured shirts. Cut-outs of various dance forms of India complete the décor inside; add to it live counters that dish out set dosas, idli with meen kozhambu, Bengali roll, Indian breads and lassi in flavours of your choice. Thadal, the Sindhi drink made with milk, almond and gulkand, and Madurai’s famous jigarthanda with home-made caramelised ice cream in it, are the welcome drinks. Refreshing in this heat, I enjoy both and pass the soups and salad counter. The murgh palak kebabs (big chunks of boneless chicken marinated in spinach paste) melt in the mouth while the crisp rawa fried fish, corn cutlets, and chowki-ki-tikki made with peas, make extremely good starters. The main meal starts with the delicious Lucknowi gosht dum biryani. However, I find the Konkani Saraswat prawn curry disappointing. It is greasy and one had to fish for the prawns. The Karaikudi chicken curry is too hot for my palate. Thankfully, Kerala’s meen moilee is in complete contrast with large pieces of boneless basa in rich coconut milk and cashew paste. I move on to the meatless variants. The Bengali potoler dolma (small pointed gourd stuffed with cheese and nuts soaked in curry) and the Punjabi channa masala chawal impress me. The chickpeas are brilliantly cooked and flavoured and the spices complement the Punjabi rice. From vegetables and curries to dals and desserts, there’s plenty to choose from. The Sindhi kadhi, paneer pepper masala, vendakai inji puli kootu, vazhakai nei roast, murungaikeerai urulai masal with nellikai paruppu sadam and many more items give a sample of the distinct flavours from various regions. The dessert counter beats it all with 20 on offer from the ghee dripping Tirunelveli halwa, paal adai payasam and Mysore pak to khaja, kesarbhog and pudding, gateaux, tiramisu, mousse and cakes with natural flavoured ice creams. The diverse menu is value for money. On till August 20, 7 pm to 11 pm.

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