Spice up the Malabar biriyani The Malabar biriyani , which is a lip-smacking melange of spices, aromas and flavour, is the best in the world, according to those in the region. And once you have a taste, you are tempted to agree.A visit to Malabar is incomplete without digging into a plateful of sumptuous biriyani served across the region — from Kozhikode to Kasaragod. It’s no wonder then that its fame has spread across the globe with several outlets and even brands now vying with each other to add the name Malabar to their products.Recently, the Supreme Court had clarified that there can be no right to the exclusive use of the word Malabar, as part of its verdict on a trademark battle between two companies for its use for sale of biriyani rice.As the biriyani once again becomes a steaming hot topic, not just on the dining table but even at the apex judicial forum, we set out to trace the history and the secret ingredients of the ‘real’ Malabar biriyani.Faiza Moosa, an expert in Moplah cuisines, is among those who bracket the biriyanis of Kozhikode, Kannur, Thalassery and Mahe as Malabar biriyani. “There isn’t much evidence as to who brought the biriyani to Malabar. It has been said that during the Mughal invasion, it was that sublime one-dish meal served to their soldiers. Or it could have come from the pilgrims. It is also said that Malabar biriyani has Arab influence as many Arabs had come to the region for trade and had families here, marrying local women. The blend of our tastes and theirs formed Moplah cuisines. The dishes were eventually modified to appeal the regional palates,” she explains.Octogenarian Ummi Abdulla, who is called the queen of Moplah cuisine, tells us that in her younger days, there wasn’t a specific dish called Malabar biriyani.“The biriyani of each region in Malabar tastes different. Kannur, Mahe and Thalassery have different methods of cooking compared to Kozhikode,” she says.Ummi’s favourites though are Thalassery and Kozhikode biriyanis. “You have more ingredients in Kozhikoden biriyani including spices. They add coriander powder and tomato along with the common ingredients onion, ginger, green chilli and garlic. In Thalassery, we don’t add coriander powder and tomatoes.”On how the two differ in the making, Ummi says, “In Kozhikoden biriyani, they mix all the masala together with the mutton or chicken along with fried onions, lime juice and curd. Chilli powder is also added and everything is sautéed together.After marinating the meat, the ingredients are put in a huge vessel in layers along with half cooked rice. Above the rice, meat and masala, they add fried cashews, raisins and onions. The vessel is then shut and sealed with maida around the edges. The coal heats the vessel from the bottom, beginning the ‘dum’ process that will slowly cook the biriyani,” she explains, adding that the Kozhikoden biriyani will be slightly juicier than the Thalassery variety.For the authentic Thalassery biriyani, only onion, ginger, garlic paste, lime juice, curd, coriander and pudina leaves are added. “There is no pepper or any other masala,” explains Ummi. “Raisins and spices including cardamom, cloves, cinnamon stick and bay leaf are mixed.”Also, for the variety, the rice and meat are cooked separately, unlike the Kozhikoden biriyani. “The rice is fully cooked like ghee rice. After the marinated chicken is cooked well, they will add both the rice and the chicken as layers in a vessel and heat it on dum. As both rice and chicken are already well cooked, this process doesn’t take much time,” she says.Ummi who recalls the biriyani of her childhood, served for weddings, special functions and even for festivals, tells us that it was totally different from the current varieties. “I have no idea how people have customised it now. Some people choose to fry the chicken for the biriyani. The preparation has changed depending on people’s tastes,” she explains.The customisation could be what perfected the Malabar biriyani, believes Sumesh Govind, managing director of Paragon hotel, one of the most popular restaurants in Kerala serving authentic Malabar biriyani. Its unique flavour has been evolved from the tastes of two prominent communities residing in the region — Thiyas and Moplahs, he says. “The Thiya community loves spicy dishes whereas Moplahs prefer them less spicy. I feel the amalgamation of these two tastes have perfected the Malabar biriyani. The spices in it are well balanced along with the tender chicken. Interestingly, the spices never reduce the flavour of the meat and instead complements it. This is what makes Malabar biriyani more appealing to international foodies,” he explains. The aromatic Wayanadan kaima or Jeerakashala rice too adds flavour to the dish, “making it the tastiest biriyani”, he says, adding that the other varieties in India are spicier and made with basmati rice.While there are differences of opinions on the methods of preparation and ingredients of the real Malabar biriyani, Malayalis unanimously say it’s the best of all biriyanis. “It is our quintessential celebratory meal and its taste is extremely special. Whoever has relished this aromatic delicacy filled with spicy goodness will be overwhelmed. I am sure that is precisely why it has a universal appeal,” says Sumesh.Cardamom, cloves, cinnamonAniseed, cumin seed, sajeeraNutmeg and maceThe spices shouldn’t be dry fried but dried in the sun for two hoursAll these are then ground to a fine powderMuttamalaAlisa (A dish made of mutton and special alisa wheat)Chatti pathiriThe course ends with a sulaimani

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