Surat: The popularity of the original hand-embroidered saris from Kolkata has diminished since 2008 largely because of Surat’s embroidery sector. Surti embroidery manufacturers allegedly copied Kolkata’s exquisite designs to manufacture low-cost look-alikes on costly computerised Schiffli and multi-headed embroidery machines imported from China, Taiwan and Japan.Areas like Varachha, Katargam, Puna, Pandol, Ved-Road, Udhna, Pandesara and Sachin have become the hub of embroidery sector in the last one decade or so.If the industry leaders are to be believed then Rs 2,000 crore worth of embroidered saris, dress material and ‘chania cholis’ are sent to Kolkata annually from here. As against the embroidered saris that costs Rs 7,000 to Rs 15,000 in Kolkata, the Surti version costs just Rs 1,500 to Rs 2,500.From just few thousand machines in 2004-2006, it now boasts of more than 1.25 lakh high-end embroidery machines. The rise of the embroidery sector started way back in 2008 when the diamond sector had lost its glitter to the global economic down.Many small and marginal diamond unit owners had switched over to the embroidery machines and invested their diamond capital into purchasing highly advanced imported embroidery machines. Rakesh Biswas, a trader in Kolkata, who sends his saris for embroidery work in Surat, said, “The embroidery workers in Surat have a unique talent as they mimic hand-embroidery designs from Kolkata. I purchase saris from Surat and send them for embroidery job-work to the embroidery unit in Katargam. The embroidered sari designed in Surat is almost 60 per cent cheaper than its Kolkata counterpart.”Devkishan Manghani, chairman of textile committee of Southern Gujarat Chamber of Commerce and Industry (SGCCI) said, “Most traders in Kolkata have opened their offices in Surat. Our embroidery is very cheap compared to Kolkata. Surat has become the embroidery capital of India”

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