Thiruvananthapuram, the capital of erstwhile erstwhile Travancore State, boasts numerous palaces, big and small, used for various purposes ranging from residential to purely religious. The palaces in the Fort, Kowdiar, Kanakakunnu, Thirumala, Vellayambalam, Vellayani, Shanghumugham, Poojappura, Kovalam and so on still remind one of the city’s regal past. Stately abodes Alongside these palaces, the capital city takes pride in its stately mansions that belonged to the nobility, royal favourites, and top officials. Amongst the numerous graceful mansions that occupy prime locations are the abodes of some Dewans (prime ministers) of Travancore. Dewan Nanoo Pillai (1827–1886) who occupied the prestigious office from 1877-80, during the reign of Ayilyam Tirunal Rama Varma, had left a mark in the city. Born and brought up in Neyoor, a village in southern Travancore, it was not a smooth ride for Nanoo Pillai to reach the post of the Dewan. After his basic schooling, Nanoo Pillai moved to Thiruvananthapuram, where he enrolled in Maharaja’s Free School. On obtaining a diploma with distinction, young Nanoo Pillai returned to his native village. Fortunately, for Pillai, he soon managed to enter into the good books of General Cullen, the British Resident, who appointed him as a clerk in the Residency. In 1855, Nanoo Pillai purchased a house in Thiruvananthapuram. The house, Angadithala Veedu in Pazhavangadi, was located to the west of Overbridge. It is recorded that Uthram Tirunal Marthanda Varma once visited Angadithala Veedu. Unfortunately, this house was demolished when the site was acquired for the extension of the railway. In the following years, Nanoo Pillai joined the State Service as Sheristadar in the Police Department and gradually rose to the position of Dewan. Landmark As Pillai became more closely associated with the city, he constructed a grand bungalow, Diamond Hill, in Vellayambalam, for his family, atop a small hill to the north-east of Vellayambalam palace. Once the bungalow was constructed, it became an important landmark. After the demise of Ayilyam Tirunal, his successor Vishakam Tirunal Rama Varma dismissed many of his predecessor’s loyal officials. Dewan Nanoo Pillai, in spite of his successful administration, resigned and retired from service, much against the wish of Hannyngton, the then British Resident. According to K.R. Elenkath, grandnephew and biographer of Nanoo Pillai, Diamond Hill became his abode after retirement. However, quite contrary to his expectations, Nanoo Pillai was not destined to enjoy a peaceful life in Thiruvananthapuram. Seeing the love and regard the local population had for the former Dewan, the King feared that Nanoo Pillai’s prolonged stay in the capital may result in political strife. Considering the delicate situation, Nanoo Pillai shifted to his ancestral house in Neyoor. In a few years Visakam Tirunal recognised the integrity of Nanoo Pillai, an upright administrator, and invited him back to Thiruvananthapuram. A royalist, Pillai relocated to Diamond Hill and soon became friends with the King. Hannyngton was glad to see Pillai back in Thiruvananthapuram and paid him a visit at his residence. According to his biographer, Visakam Tirunal’s successor Sree Moolam Tirunal intended to nominate Nanoo Pillai to the Dewan post. However, three days before he was to receive the formal appointment order, Nanoo Pillai passed away at his residence at Vellayambalam. Today, the grand old bungalow has made way for modern constructions; however, a few other graceful residences built by the descendants of Nanoo Pillai still survive in the city. The writer is a conservation architect and history buff

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