The Harmandir Sahib (Golden Temple) is the most iconic sight of Amritsar, immortalised in countless pieces of art, and mentioned in literature, history and religion. But, on entering the worlds most visited gurdwara, two 156-foot-high watchtowers overlooking the shrines complex catch the eye. Built by 18th century Sikh leader Jassa Singh Ramgarhia, the two minarets are part of the 250-year-old Ramgarhia Bunga. In May, the Shiromani Gurdwara Parbandhak Committee (SGPC) finally completed the first phase of the buildings much-delayed restoration, one which could serve as a cornerstone to how historical Sikh buildings are restored in future.SGPC member Bhai Ram Singh, who is looking after the restoration, calls the bunga a relic of Sikh Misls, the 12 sovereign states of Sikh Confederacy that rose from 1733 to 1799. He acknowledges SGPC received flak in the past for its attitude towards restoring such buildings as it would use modern interventions. He says the Sikh body today is aware of such problems. Water would seep into the structure, and many pillars developed cracks. It was difficult for the electrician to even install wires in levels which are underground, especially as it is dark, he says. The restored parts of Ramagrhia Bunga, like the original, have been made from Nanakshahi bricks set in lime-and-mud mortar. Sikh architecture, inspired from contemporary Mughal and Rajput styles, is visible in flat-roofed domes in the courtyards. Rawal Singh, a professor of architecture at Guru Nanak Dev University, is working on the project too. For him, the main challenge has been to ensure mortar is similar to the one used in the original structure three centuries ago. Several ingredients were used in the mortar. Similarly, many ingredients used to build the RamgarhiRamgarhia Bunga illuminated at nightGoing back in timeAround 84 bungas had sprung up around Harmandir Sahib by early 19th century, all serving purposes like education, accommodation, and fortification. Sikhs remember these structures in their daily ardas, or prayer, by saying Jhande, Bunge Jugo-Jug Atal (may the flags and bungas exist for eternity). Many bungas were destroyed by raiders and the British, and some fell to vagaries of time, while the architectural heritage of the surviving structures was destroyed by religious restorers — such as the Kar Seva (selfless-service) sects — who relied on modern interventions and new constructions. Ramgarhia Bunga too has suffered heavy damage over the years, but it survived. The original dome and minarets were damaged in an earthquake in 1903, after which the top domes were removed to ensure safety. While later restored, the bunga again suffered heavy damages during Operation Bluestar. Kar Seva to restore the bunga was again started in 2008, but stopped after scholars and historians criticised use of cement. The latest restoration started last year. It stood apart as SGPC this time ensured repli- cation of original processes. Nanakshahi bricks were even used to make round arches above the new gates (see top-right), using techniques similar to the one in 18th century Punjab.Nanakshahi edge over cementRakesh Kashyap, a Delhi-based conservator who is also working with the team, says earthquakes left many cracks in the walls and ceiling. Weve repaired those, he says, adding they are yet to repair minor cracks in the ceiling, although the structure is safe. For him, buildings made from Nanakshahi bricks set in lime-and-mud mortar are stronger than those built using modern bricks and cement. Lime mortar allows oxidation, while breathing stops in cement buildings. Nanakshahi buildings interact with the environment, and dont develop cracks like concrete does, he says.Bunga is accessible from next to Langar Hall in Darbar Sahib ComplexHe cites Nanakshahi bricks composition and thin design for their strength. Twenty-five years ago when he started conservation in Punjab, his team found it hard to arrange Nanakshahi bricks. Even today, such bricks are not baked in Amritsar, and have to be sourced from kilns in Tarn Taran, Fatehgarh Sahib, Chandigarh, and Ambala.Kashyap feels sorry people do not see their superiority over modern bricks, and instead disintegrate these heritage bricks for use as gravel. Cement was used in past restoration attempts at the bunga, but those interventions have now been removed, he says. It is not the original one, but close to it, he adds, talking about the material used in todays restoration.The Throne of the Mughals (uppermost slab of the Takht-e-Taus brought back from Delhi)Moving forwardAt the moment, the first underground level of been temporarily bolted shut. The SGPC plans minor repair works. Bhai Ram Singh disclosed there were also plans of opening a museum inside the bunga, depicting the life of Jassa Singh Ramgarhia. Rakesh Kashyap, meanwhile added, if given a chance, he would love to restore and open the now-inaccessible second and third underground levels, as well.New Nanakshahi bricks laid over old onesProtecting Harmandir sahibJassa Singh Ramgarhia was assigned to protect Harmandir Sahib from attacks after the Afghan forces of Ahmed Shah Abdali ransacked the shrine and Massa Rangarh desecrated it. In the 18th century, Jassa Singh set up the fortress (garhi) of Ram Rauni near Gurdwara Ramsar in Amritsar, about a mile from Harmandir Sahib, hence getting the title of Ramgarhia. This honorary title would stick with his descendants. Jassa Singh later built another palace in the parkarma (circumambulation) of Harmandir Sahib, with two minarets atop, serving as watchtowers of his army. This came to be known as the Ramgarhia Bunga. In Persian, Bunga means a sarai, or a resthouse, which would be the purpose of this structure during peacetimeRound flat-dome roof, a distinct Nanakshahi architectural style WHAT IT HOUSESTHRONE OF THE MUGHALS | The ground floor courtyard has the upper marble slab of the Takht-e-Taus (above), the throne of the Mughal Empire, which would be kept in Delhis Red Fort. Jassa Singh brought it to Amritsar as a war souvenir after winning in Delhi in 1783Throne of Jassa Singh Ramgarhia is located on minus 1 level in order to keep it below Harmandir SahibRAMGARHIAS THRONE | The first underground level houses the throne of Jassa Singh (below), who kept it lower than the level of Harmandir Sahib, signifying the Sikh concept of Miri and Piri — the rulers submission before GodNew gate made using Nanakshahi BricksLEVELS TO THE STRUCTURE | Ramgarhia Bunga has a courtyard and 27 rooms on the ground floor. Two staircases lead to the rooftop, which then lead to the two watchtowers, each three storeys and 156 feet high. Most of the bunga is still inaccessible as its three levels have been built underground. Only the first underground level is open to public. It also has five halls and three rooms. One of them served as a jail. Spacious arch windows keep the bunga ventilated, well-lit and cool throughout the yearFINAL TOUCHES | Nanakshahi bricks similar to the ones used in the original structure are being used to repair parts of the structure. A new boundary wall (right), an entrance gate and two mumties over the staircases leading down have been made using these bricks. Theres also a well next to the gate in the courtyardBLENDING MODERN BRICKS | New bricks of similar kind have been laid over heritage Nanakshahi bricks (see below) to repair the boundary wall of the Bunga

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